Back for seconds
- Tanya Grover
- Mar 21, 2017
- 4 min read

I guess Portugal was so cool last weekend that I just had to go again...so I made a spontaneous decision on Thursday night to return for another weekend. This time, however, was spent in Porto. Smaller than Lisbon and thus less touristy, this coastal city is actually amazing (I know I say this about every city but seriously). My friends Brooklyn, Claire and I stayed in a cute, ~trendy af~ Airbnb in the center of the city. It was an adorable little 5th floor flat with a loft and two huge rooftop windows. It was truly the ideal millennial traveler’s space, complete with an “honesty bar,” aka Portuguese wine and craft beer provided by the Airbnb hosts for reasonable prices, in which you pay into a little box before leaving. SO cute and I never realized how much I missed craft beer until now. Also, I could sit on this roof forever and be perfectly content.

We arrived early Friday evening to begin exploring the city. We ate dinner at a place recommended by another trusty New York Times article that is known for its steak egg sandwiches, which are pretty popular in Porto. So obviously we had to try that (yum), along with Porto wine. The equivalent of port wine in the States, Porto wine first originated here so naturally it's where you can find the best. Basically it is fortified wine, meaning it’s particularly sweet with a very high alcohol content of usually about 20%. In Portugal it’s customary to drink Porto wine after a meal with dessert, due to its sweetness and strength. I don’t love sweet wines so this wasn’t my favorite, but ya gotta appreciate a wine with a 20% alcohol content.
Saturday morning we wandered around, getting ahold of our bearings while searching for breakfast. The Majestic Café was on our minds due to its historical significance as a cultural hotspot, but when we got there the prices were absurd (€30 for the regular brunch combo). So we settled on another place called the Traveler’s Café, which ended up being the best decision we could’ve made. I just have to rant for a minute because this brunch was so unreal. €14.85 for: scrambled eggs with salmon, bread, croissant with jam, a mixed nut muffin, an Acai berry bowl, orange juice and coffee. A breakfast lover’s dream. We all splurged for this meal and didn’t eat for the rest of the day (minus some mid-afternoon gelato and late-night Steak n Shake, of course).
We spent the rest of the morning and early afternoon strolling around and enjoying all of the unexpected treasures we stumbled upon, appearing in the form of adorable boutiques and art galleries and charming markets. Porto's shopping scene is so unique and this was the first time I’ve really spent money on things other than food/drinks/postcards while traveling, so I treated myself to some fun jewelry and art. You’re only in Porto once!!! (Except hopefully not, Andie and I have plans to return with our boyfriends when we’re 26.)
In the afternoon we made the necessary visit to Livraria Lello, one of the oldest bookstores in Portugal and commonly considered one of the best in the world. Established by the Lello brothers in the late 19th century, the bookstore's architecture is incredible with elements of both Gothic and Art Deco styles. Most notable is the massive spiral staircase in the center of the room. Perhaps even cooler, J.K. Rowling frequented this place while she was living in Porto as an English professor at the university and undoubtedly received some Hogwarts inspiration from here. I felt like I should’ve been browsing the walls for a Defense against the Dark Arts textbook! I did, however, purchase the newest Harry Potter book because I haven’t read it yet and what better place to buy it? While I’m so happy I got to experience Livraria Lello, the obnoxiously large amount of people inside was almost unbearable. Almost. Because still freaking cool.
Late afternoon/early evening we hung out in this really swanky park with a fun outdoor bar. After people-watching for a considerable amount of time we decided conclusively that Portuguese men are inherently more attractive than Spanish men. Then we returned to our flat to hangout for a while and watch the sunset from our dope rooftop windows while partaking in refreshments from the honesty bar. After going out, our night ended with a trip to Steak n Shake so obviously it was a damn good day. (Still super confused about why there is this random Steak n Shake in Porto, as I haven’t seen them in any other European city but hey, I’m not complaining. My frisco melt tasted like heaven.)
Sunday morning began with another aesthetically pleasing breakfast, because quality breakfasts are just necessary while traveling due to our grand deprivation of real breakfast in our Spanish lifestyle. Then we headed towards the river to hang out in that area since we hadn’t the day before. I loved this part of the city. The riverfront buildings are all bright-colored with balconies and a plethora of fun cafes and shops lined the river. Brooklyn and I bought necklaces from the most adorable street vendor (he’s working on an Etsy shop that I will 10/10 recommend) and we split a pitcher of sangria on an outdoor patio overlooking the river.
After this we went to Armazém, an old warehouse that is now a vintage shop/thrift store/restaurant/bar. Such a cool concept honestly and a really cool space. We browsed (I bought a vintage postcard-sized print of Porto) and had some surprisingly delicious sandwiches. One wouldn’t think a vintage shop in a warehouse would have the best food, but my salmon & Philadelphia cream cheese on toast was delicious.

Porto is such a walkable city that by Sunday night, I can definitely say that I felt like I knew my way around decently well for only a 48-hour stay. I think this is such an appealing trait of a city because it prevents a touristy feel and allows one to explore more naturally and freely. I loved Porto because I felt like I actually experienced the heart & soul & personality of the city, just by simply walking through its vibrant streets and experiencing the cuisine, nightlife and art. We caught the 8:30pm bus home, from which I am currently typing, and will hopefully arrive in Salamanca by 3am. Lo siento, Marta, but I may be skipping class tomorrow.
Porto you treated me well!!!!
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